Spot on: Hyperpigmentation explained

 

Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common concerns addressed in dermatology offices, affecting 1 in 3 women—90% of whom are over 50. Studies show that uneven skin tone can make someone appear up to 12 years older, proving just how much dark spots influence perceived age.

Ready to take control? Discover the types and causes of hyperpigmentation, along with tips to prevent its undesirable effects, for a radiant, spotless complexion—one spot at a time.

WHAT IS HYPERPIGMENTATION?

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin disorder caused by an overstimulation of melanin in the skin that results in dark spots or patches, usually visible on sun-exposed areas such as the face, neck, décolleté, and hands. It can affect all skin types, regardless of tone or complexion.

WHAT CAUSES DARK SPOTS?

Hyperpigmentation is caused by the overproduction and accumulation of melanin in the skin, the pigment responsible for the coloration of hair, eyes, and skin.

This excess melanin production results from the overstimulation of melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin synthesis. When melanin is produced in excess, it accumulates, forming dark spots that disrupt the skin’s even tone and radiance, giving it a more aged and less luminous appearance. This imbalance in melanin production can also lead to changes in skin texture, often associated with signs of aging.

Many factors can contribute to hyperpigmentation, including sun exposure, hormonal changes, inflammation, skin injuries, aging, and certain medications or medical conditions.

WHAT ARE THE TYPES OF HYPERPIGMENTATION?

 

Solar lentigines (sunspots)

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Melasma

 

1. Solar lentigines (sunspots)

When the skin is exposed to UV rays, melanocytes are stimulated to produce melanin in order to protect other cells from the harmful effects of the sun. Over time, this UV exposure leads to the formation of sunspots, often referred to as age spots. These brown-to-black patches commonly appear, after the age of 40, on sun-exposed areas of the body.

2. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is one of the most common forms of hyperpigmentation. It occurs due to skin injuries, such as cuts or burns, trauma from certain skin conditions like acne, or controlled skin trauma from cosmetic treatments such as laser resurfacing and other procedures. These factors can trigger inflammation, stimulating melanin production and leading to the formation of dark spots.

3. Melasma

Estrogens have the ability to stimulate melanin production, which is why hyperpigmentation can occur as a result of hormonal changes. Mostly affecting women, melasma is triggered by hormonal fluctuations such as those occurring during pregnancy or from the use of certain medications. It commonly appears as patchy areas of darker skin on the forehead, cheeks and upper lip that typically appear darker right after sun exposure.

4. Hyperpigmentation due to illness

Certain autoimmune and gastrointestinal diseases, as well as metabolic disorders and vitamin deficiencies, can contribute to the development of hyperpigmentation.

 

OUR TIPS TO PREVENT AND VISIBLY IMPROVE HYPERPIGMENTATION

 

1. PRIORITIZE SUNSCREEN

Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen is crucial for preventing and managing hyperpigmentation, as sun exposure is one of its primary causes. To minimize the risk of new dark spots and prevent existing ones from worsening, it’s best to limit sun exposure, especially during peak sunlight hours, from 10 AM to 2 PM. However, as avoiding the sun entirely isn’t always possible, applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 25 or higher daily—even in winter or on cloudy days—and always reapplying the sunscreen every two hours, when outdoors, is essential. Furthermore, it is important to note that ingredients like alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and retinol can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays, therefore, applying insufficient sun protection when using AHA, BHA, or retinol may cause pigmentation to reappear.

1. PRIORITIZE SUNSCREEN

Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen is crucial for preventing and managing hyperpigmentation, as sun exposure is one of its primary causes. To minimize the risk of new dark spots and prevent existing ones from worsening, it’s best to limit sun exposure, especially during peak sunlight hours, from 10 AM to 2 PM. However, as avoiding the sun entirely isn’t always possible, applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 25 or higher daily—even in winter or on cloudy days—and always reapplying the sunscreen every two hours, when outdoors, is essential. Furthermore, it is important to note that ingredients like alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and retinol can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays, therefore, applying insufficient sun protection when using AHA, BHA, or retinol may cause pigmentation to reappear.

2. INCORPORATE INGREDIENTS AND PRODUCTS THAT TARGET HYPERPIGMENTATION

NEW Dark Spot Serum

Our holy grail for preventing and treating hyperpigmentation, the new Dark Spot Serum, combines multi-level actions to target dark spots and signs of aging. This advanced, radiance-revealing serum is clinically formulated to visibly correct hyperpigmentation, revealing a brighter, more even complexion.

 

 

Benefits

  • Fades the appearance of persistent pigmentation spots, such as age spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
  • Helps prevent the appearance of new pigmented spots without causing irritation.
  • Brightens and evens out the complexion, while improving the clarity and overall appearance of the skin.
  • Reduces visible signs of aging for a more youthful and radiant look.

 

 

Key ingredients

  • 3% Tranexamic acid:
    Helps reduce the apperance of hyperpigmentation caused by UV exposure and skin inflammation.
  • 3% Encapsulated kojic acid complex:
    This precision-driven smart liposome technology ensures fast and superior delivery to visibly target age spots, without causing irritation.
  • 5% Niacinamide:
    This form of vitamin B3 helps even out skin tone.
  • Monarda Didyma leaf extract:
    This innovative ingredient is the first to tar get both the appearance of dark and white spots caused by sun exposure and skin aging.

 

 

Clinical results

  • 94% showed reduction in the melanic index*(hyperpigmentation)
  • 87% showed reduction in the appearance of red areas*
  • 83% showed reduction in the appearance of dark spots*

* Clinical study on 45 volunteers (avg. age 62 years old), all skin types with hyperpigmentation. Application of serum after cleansing. The efficacy and tolerance were tested on day 0, 28 and 56. Individual results may vary. Performed by Lab. Dermo-Cosmetik (G.M. COLLIN) on site.

 

Benefits

  • Fades the appearance of persistent pigmentation spots, such as age spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
  • Helps prevent the appearance of new pigmented spots without causing irritation.
  • Brightens and evens out the complexion, while improving the clarity and overall appearance of the skin.
  • Reduces visible signs of aging for a more youthful and radiant look.

Key ingredients

  • 3% Tranexamic acid:
    Helps reduce the apperance of hyperpigmentation caused by UV exposure and skin inflammation.
  • 3% Encapsulated kojic acid complex:
    This precision-driven smart liposome technology ensures fast and superior delivery to visibly target age spots, without causing irritation.
  • 5% Niacinamide:
    This form of vitamin B3 helps even out skin tone.
  • Monarda Didyma leaf extract:
    This innovative ingredient is the first to tar get both the appearance of dark and white spots caused by sun exposure and skin aging.

Clinical results

  • 94% showed reduction in the melanic index*(hyperpigmentation)
  • 87% showed reduction in the appearance of red areas*
  • 83% showed reduction in the appearance of dark spots*

* Clinical study on 45 volunteers (avg. age 62 years old), all skin types with hyperpigmentation. Application of serum after cleansing. The efficacy and tolerance were tested on day 0, 28 and 56. Individual results may vary. Performed by Lab. Dermo-Cosmetik (G.M. COLLIN) on site.

Dark Spot Serum provides visual benefits and results equivalent to hydroquinone products, without the associated risks. Hydroquinone, a skin-lightening agent used to treat hyperpigmentation, raises concerns about potential risks and side effects associated with its usage, especially with prolonged use. These risks include skin irritation, sensitivity, potential carcinogenicity, and permanent skin discoloration (ochronosis). Due to these concerns, hydroquinone has been banned in Europe and is restricted in certain countries.

 

Vital C15 Serum

Vital C15 Serum contains 15% of our VITAL C COMPLEX, which combines four powerful antioxidants: vitamin C to visibly reduce fine lines, brighten the complexion and enhance skin vitality, ferulic acid to boost the benefits of the vitamin C, camu-camu extract, and L-ergothioneine.

Vital C15 Serum is an excellent choice to improve skin vitality and uniformity, leaving the complexion visibly brighter and more luminous.

 

 

Retinol Advanced+ Night Cream + GMC Medical 0.5% or 1 Retinol Complex Night Cream

Retinol is a form of retinoid derived from vitamin A. It increases cell turnover, thus reducing the buildup of dead skin cells and assisting in diminishing signs of aging.
Topical retinoids, like retinol, are also effective in treating clinical signs of photoaging, the process by which skin is damaged from long-term exposure to UVA and UVB rays. Photoaging produces wrinkles, loss of elasticity and hyperpigmentation. G.M. COLLIN and GMC Medical offer three concentrations of retinol formulations in their products, to allow to achieve optimal results for all skin types and conditions.

 

 

Poly-Acid Peel Serum

AHAs and BHAs are chemical exfoliants that work by gently breaking down the bonds holding dead skin cells together, promoting their gradual exfoliation. These exfoliants offer a mild yet effective way to renew the skin, delivering noticeable results including a visibly smoother texture and minimized appearance of pigmentation, pores, blemishes, and fine lines.

Formulated with 10% AHA and 0.5% BHA, the Poly-Acid Peel provides a multi-layered exfoliation, improving the appearance of imperfections.

 

Vital C15 Serum

Vital C15 Serum contains 15% of our VITAL C COMPLEX, which combines four powerful antioxidants: vitamin C to visibly reduce fine lines, brighten the complexion and enhance skin vitality, ferulic acid to boost the benefits of the vitamin C, camu-camu extract, and L-ergothioneine.

Vital C15 Serum is an excellent choice to improve skin vitality and uniformity, leaving the complexion visibly brighter and more luminous.

 

Retinol Advanced+ Night Cream + GMC Medical 0.5% or 1% Retinol Complex Night Cream

Retinol is a form of retinoid derived from vitamin A. It increases cell turnover, thus reducing the buildup of dead skin cells and assisting in diminishing signs of aging.
Topical retinoids, like retinol, are also effective in treating clinical signs of photoaging, the process by which skin is damaged from long-term exposure to UVA and UVB rays. Photoaging produces wrinkles, loss of elasticity and hyperpigmentation. G.M. COLLIN and GMC Medical offer three concentrations of retinol formulations in their products, to allow to achieve optimal results for all skin types and conditions.

 

Poly-Acid Peel Serum

AHAs and BHAs are chemical exfoliants that work by gently breaking down the bonds holding dead skin cells together, promoting their gradual exfoliation. These exfoliants offer a mild yet effective way to renew the skin, delivering noticeable results including a visibly smoother texture and minimized appearance of pigmentation, pores, blemishes, and fine lines.

Formulated with 10% AHA and 0.5% BHA, the Poly-Acid Peel provides a multi-layered exfoliation, improving the appearance of imperfections.

 

3. COMBINE AT-HOME PRODUCTS WITH PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS

For enhanced results, alongside a daily at-home skincare routine, consider in-spa treatments that help visibly diminish hyperpigmentation.

  • Chemical Peels
    G.M. COLLIN offers a variety of professional chemical peels, formulated with 30% AHA and/or BHA, designed to promote exfoliation of the skin’s surface layers, remove dead skin cells, brighten the complexion, and help to diminish the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
  • Sea C Spa
    Formulated with Vitamin C Serum and algae BioMatrix patches, Sea C Spa is a powerful antioxidant, anti-aging, and brightening treatment designed to delay the signs of aging, revitalize the skin, and even out skin tone.

4. STAY CONSISTENT

Hyperpigmentation takes time to fade. Achieving lasting results requires patience and commitment to a tailored skincare routine. Stick with it and, over time, you’ll see noticeable improvements.

 

Written by G.M. COLLIN